středa 4. července 2012

Chironico

Lubovi končí lyžařská zimní sezóna na lanovce.Mám ještě několik dní loňské dovolené,dětem vyjednáme týdenní volno ze školy a hurá ,konečně skály.Po té dlouhé zimě,práci,tréniku v posilce se fakt těším.Tak trochu s vypětím sil,mezi službami v nemocnici sbalím věci pro naši rodinku a v pátek frčíme.Naštěstí cestu odřídil Luba s Mončou,já jsem byla "na sliz".V noci jsme přespali a dojeli jsme v poledne.Koupili jsme ještě průvodce a Luba už flešuje Senza Denti.Momo dává dobré pokusy,ale pár cenťáků zase chybí.S Ojou drtíme oblé pětky.Přespíme na parkáčku.K ránu je okolo 5-ti stupínků.Momo má dnes narozeniny 20!Po deváté se vyhoupne hřejivé sluníčko.Já už cítím,že mi není dobře - a to mi vydrželo do konce zájezdu,horečky,slabost....Snídaně a hurá na kameny.Momo má jasno -Artista (Confesion of Scrap Artist ,6ti metrový bouder ,autor Dave Graham a jak píše Adam Ondra v popisu boulderu ,"Psycho!").Je hustá,několikrát spadne z pod vršku,jednou i z vršku a ten pád vypadal teda dost drsně -Luba je ale dobrý chytač.
Momo a Artista

Po tomto pádu jsem to Monče už rozmlouvala,ať se na to vykašle,že si ještě ublíží,ale plná optimismu říká:"dnes mám narozeniny ,dnes se mi přece nemůže nic stát",a jde do toho znova.Přišla i partička slovinců,sedli si naproti na kámen a čekali...trochu překvapeně zírali,jak odhodlaná Monča zdolává výlezový výšvih.Je to doma.Momo je šťastná jak blecha,my taky ,hlavně že je celá.
Momo na kole

Nabitá optimismem a energií se ještě "projede" na erárním kole a jdem slavit,jak její narozeniny,tak její první zahraniční8A.Dort a šampáňo nesmí chybět.
Slavíme narozky

Momo pak ještě v týdnu přidala Powstrip 7C.
Momo a Powrstrip

Luba také nelenil,ráno si vždy přivstal ,aby bylo alespoň trošku tření a sklidil 1x7C flash,5x 7C,2x 7C+..
Lálpiniste 5

.Oja sbíral bouldr za bouldrem,vrhal se do všeho co se mu líbilo.
Primitive tango 5  OS

Vylezl spoustu 5-6B,a jedno 6B+.
Alzati e cammina 6B+

Oja v Die Roboter 6A

Já jsem se tak trošku vzpamatovala koncem zájezdu a tak tak jsem stíhala vylézt to,co přelezl Oja.Počasí bylo celý týden slunečné , až ke konci spadlo pár kapiček.
naši miláčci

Cestou zpět jsme se stavili ještě na den v Magic woodu,ale ten půlmetr sněhu který tu ještě ležel,urychli náš návrat domů.




Chironico
Luba's winter season at the chairlift was ending. I had a few days of paid holiday preserved from the last year. We arranged a week off school for the children. Hurray, the to the rocks at last. After the long winter I spent working and working out, I was really excited to go. With much effort, in time between the shifts in the hospital, I managed to pack the stuff for the family. On Friday, we moved off. Luba and Monča fortunately agreed to drive the whole way because I myself was ruined. We were sleeping at night so we arrived at the next day's noon. We bought a guide and Luba had already started "flashing" Senza Denti. Momo made a few really good attempts but she was always missing just a few centimeters. Oja and I were excelling at round fives. A night at the parking place. Only about five degrees Celsius in the morning .That day was Momo's birthday: the 20th! A warming sun appeared after nine o'clock. I was not well and I remained that way till the end of the trip: fevers, faintness... After the breakfast, we went for the stones. Momo's choice was perfectly clear -- she wanted to do "the Artist" (Confession of Scrap Artist, i.e. a six-meter boulder by Dave Graham which was described by Adam Ondra as "Psycho"!) She was great -- she fell a few times and one fall from the top was really hard. Fortunately, Luba is a good catcher.

After the fall I tried to talk her out but she was full of optimism, saying that she couldn't possibly hurt herself because it was her birthday! So she went for it again. A bunch of Slovene guys showed up as well, they were sitting opposite. They were a little surprised when they saw Monča fighting the top of the stone. She made it. Momo was happy as a clam and so were we. Most importantly, she was OK.

Full of optimism and energy, we were celebrating her birthday as well as her first 8A abroad. Oja was collecting successfully done boulders, starting wherever he liked. I was a little better at the end so I managed to climb what Oja had done before.

The weather was sunny all week, only a few drops at the end. On the way back we made stop at Magic Wood but we didn't stay for long after we saw that 50 cm of snow which was still lying there.

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